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There are several methods a mitigator can use to reduce radon levels in your home. While the most effective approaches prevent radon from entering your home, others methods reduce radon levels after it has entered the home by diluting the high radon air with clean air. EPA generally recommends techniques that prevent the entry of radon.
Any information that you have about the construction of your home, could help your mitigator choose the best technique. The mitigator will perform a visual inspection of the home, and design a custom system that is specific to your home. If this inspection fails to provide enough information, the mitigator may need to perform diagnostic tests prior to the installation to help develop the best radon reduction system for your home. For example, your mitigator can use a smoke pen to find the source and direction of air movement and drafts.
Whether these tests are needed is determined by details specific to your home, such as the foundation type, the material under your home, and by the mitigators experience with similar homes and similar test results.
Your home type will be the deciding factor for the kind of radon reduction system that will be most efficient. Homes are typically categorized according to their foundation structure.
For instance: basement; slab-on-grade, concrete poured at ground level; or crawlspace, a shallow unfinished, unconditioned space under the first floor. Some homes have more than onefoundation design feature. For example, it is common to have a basement under part of the house, and to have a slab-on-grade or a crawl space under the rest of the home. In these situations, a combination of radon reduction techniques might be needed to reduce radon levels to below 4 pCi/L.
Radon mitigation systems can be grouped by the home's foundation design. Find your type of foundation above, and read about which radon reduction systems would be the best fit for your home.
In homes with a basement or a slab-on-grade structure, radon is typically reduced by one of these four types of soil suction:
• Sub slab suction
• Drain-tile suction
• Sump-hole suction
• Block-wall suction
Typical Radon System
Sub slab depressurization (SSD) – Most homes will be fixed with a “Sub slab depressurization” system, which uses a fan and PVC pipe to draw air from below the basement floor and exhausts it above the roof. The radon fan creates a vacuum under the basement floor. With the fan running, if you puff smoke by a crack or opening in the basement floor, you will see the smoke slowly pulled down through the crack or opening. Turn the fan off, and the smoke will blow back in your face. As long as the fan is running, there is literally no underground air entering the home. Typically, the pipe will run through the garage, and the fan will be in the garage attic. Other methods consist of the pipe in a closet and the fan in the attic, or both the pipe and fan outside. Prices start at $900.
A sump pump is a pump used to remove water that has accumulated in a water collecting sump basin, commonly found in the basement of homes. The water may enter via the perimeter drains of a basement waterproofing system, funneling into the basin or because of rain or natural ground water, if the basement is below the water table level. These pumps start at $450 installed! We also offer battery backups for sump pumps for an additional $550
These systems are similar to sub-slab systems, but they are applied to buildings with crawlspaces, where there is either no slab or a partial slab. A vapor barrier (i.e., membrane) that is impermeable to gases is placed under the floor or directly on the soil, and one or more suction pits are placed beneath the membrane. Like sub-slab systems, they create a negative pressure under the building so vapors do not get sucked up into the building with lower pressure than the sub-surface.